Got up before sunrise this morning and caught a ride with the surf club out to Wanganui. Wanganui is a little over an hour from Palmy and I slept pretty much the whole way after getting only a couple hours of sleep the past few nights. It was so cold and dark when we got there and I was dreading the cold water...but I couldn't believe how warm the water was when I put my ice cube toes in it!!! You didn't even really need a wet suit, it was so lovely! The waves were beautiful, clean, peeling in both directions and there was an off-shore breeze. The current was strong and the waves were big so I thrashed around as usual with the longboard but had such a blast! I practiced a couple hand stands on some little insider baby waves when it got surly, and I have a feeling I might be sore tomorrow!
After a couple hours in the water, we packed up and headed back so people could get to their 11am and noon classes. The beach reminded me of Montana De Oro with rolling dunes and piles of driftwood, it was so comforting! I hope to surf this weekend down in Wellington too.
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